Bird-on-bird combat is a pillar of Filipino culture, and there are pits in every village. At a large, crowded venue in Manila, the cocks leap toward each other in a fluff and tumble of loose feathers, and when they land a moment later one of the pair has been mortally wounded. In the most dramatic bouts, the animals lock eyes, circle the turf, and then jump over each other's heads. I can't really follow what's happening, but the crowd yells, waving their hands, and tossing wads of crumpled bills from the balcony to the bet-takers below.
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